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Electric Netting FAQs

(above) Snow and a thick winter hair coat add

resistance. Make sure the energizer is up to the

challenge of such situations.

(above) Netting can be weighed down by ice or

snow. Add in support posts to take the weight.

Q. Can I connect 2 different types of

netting together?

A.

Yes. They all conduct electricity. But

some do this better than others.

Q. What about grass contact?

A.

It lowers the voltage of the fence. So:

1. When grass gets 6" high, mow

carefully

along

the fence. First turn off

the energizer! Do not mow into the

fence. Move the net into mowed strip

by removing and reinstalling.

2. Or spray herbicide in a narrow strip

under the fence. We prefer burn-down

chemicals that don’t kill perennial

vegetation. No herbicide lasts forever.

Vegetation will return.

3. Or buy an energizer large enough to

cope with the extra weed contact.

Q. What about fence energizers?

A.

For netting to be effectively used, it must

be electrified.

Most farmstore solar units

are too low in output to properly energize

a roll of netting

.

That being so, we offer

solar units that meet the higher output

needs of the net.

Q. Which energizer is right for you?

A.

If the fence is close enough to plug the

energizer into an outlet, use a plug-in

(AC/110V) unit.

(

See p. 83.)

For fences far from an outlet:

a. DC/battery energizer. N

eeds a 12

volt battery that must be regularly

recharged. (

See p. 83.)

b.

PRS solar units (include energizer, battery and solar panel to recharge them plus connecting leads to ground stake and fence).

PRS units (

See pp. 90–97)

are ready

to work within 5 minutes—just

place them, drive in the ground rod,

connect leads, switch on and test

voltage on the fence.

Q. Does the bottom wire have a charge?

A.

The ground strand of most (but not all)

nets is not conductive. The exceptions

are QuikFence Quick Ground nets

(see our website for details)

.

Q. How do I support it at corners?

A.

Two options:

1. Install a support post. (

See pp.

121–127.)

2. Or drive in a tent peg or T post

outside the fence at the corner. Use

nonconductive string to tie to the

netting post (at least 2" away).

Q. What if the net is too long? Should I

cut it?

A.

No. This will damage the net. It needs

both ends to work well.

The best way to deal with extra

length is to make a U–turn with the

net and install the excess alongside the

original net.

For Pos/Neg fences, make sure the

horizontal strands do

not

come in

contact with one another.

Q. How do I put in replacement posts?

Replacement clips?

A.

Copy the net pattern of an existing

post. Start at bottom of net and

interweave the new post upwards.

For clips, place the lowest all-black

strand in the replacement bottom clip

and slide it up the steel ground spike.

Then attach the top strand to the cap

on top of post.

Q. Some of my netting wires are being

chewed or cut. Why?

A.

The lower wires are not “hot” (enough)

to stop small rodents with poor ground

contact (mice, rats, rabbits) from

cutting them with their teeth.

Q. How do I fix a break in my net?

A.

Each net is supplied with a

repair kit

containin

g brass ferrules,

conductive

twine, post tops and bottom clips.

Use a fisherman’s knot

(p. 14).

(Look

online for a how-to on tying the knot.)

Clam

p brass ferrules

over the knot to

hold it in place.

Q. Why are some nets offered in kits

but not all of them?

A.

Because both buying and building

fences are complicated for those

without experience. New users tell us

that netting and energizer kits

simplify

purchasing decisions—

because there

are many netting options, support post

choices, energizers, ground rods, etc.

We know that:

1. Many already own an energizer.

If you’re not sure whether it will

work for our fences, contact us.

2. Many need longer fences and

larger energizers than suggested

in our kits. If so call us. We will

help you reach a solution.

3. Seeing helps. So look at our how-to

videos on our website to see how

to install and remove netting.

Q. How can I make my netting work

better in dry weather?

A.

1. Purchase a wide-impedance

energizer. They are more capable of

pushing electric pulses through dry

soil than low-impedance units.

2. Install longer ground rods. Added

12 NETTING FAQs

www.premier1supplies.com

• 1-800-282-6631

c

b

a

To insert posts into frozen soil…

a.

Use a battery drill and 5/16" drill bit to make a

starter hole. A drill bit extension (as shown) is an extra

cost but kinder to aging backs.

b.

Once the hole is

made, insert the post.

c.

Make sure the post fits into

the hole and is secure in the ground.

Q. How does netting work in winter?

A.

1. Posts become frozen in the soil. To

release we clamp pliers on the steel

spike and twist. To insert a post into

frozen soil, use a drill (

see above)

.

2. Excess ice and snow can flatten

netting (as they will any fence).

3. Snow can act as an insulator and

reduce the strength of the pulse.

length reaches the damp subsoil.

3. Place the energizer’

s ground rod

where the soil will remain damp.

4. Make the soil wet around the

energizer’s

ground rod. H

ow? Make

a pencil-size hole in the bottom of

a 3 to 5 gal bucket. Set the bucket

next to

ground rod.

Fill bucket with

water. The water will slowly seep

into the soil around the rod. Refill

every few days.