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Common Fencing Mistakes

Most common tube insulator error This SupaTube has slid sideways out from under the staple—allowing the post to leak energy to the soil when it’s wet from dew or rain. While HT wires need to be allowed to “move” inside a staple, the opposite is true of tube insulators. This is one reason we prefer ring insulators and rarely use tube insulators.

Too weak to take up/down strain

Years ago almost all insulators were

weak and badly designed. Now only 50%

are not up to the task (it varies by brand).

Buy the best (not necessarily the most

expensive) that have plenty of plastic in

them. Stick to white or black ones (more

likely to have UV resistance—but even

the right color is not a guarantee).

Pay attention

to the

little things

This insulator

was installed

upside down—

which allowed

the tape to

drop out of it.

Insulator was

too weak to

withstand the up

and down strain

from the wire.

Also, energized

barbed wire—a

serious risk.

Broken strands

Deer and livestock

can break insulators

and conductors. It is

essential to repair

them immediately.

This rope was

easily repaired with

a

RopeLink (

p. 137)

.

Incorrect Correct

Broken

Insulator

Don’t energize

barbed wire!

Insulator/Conductor Mistakes

Buying an energizer or battery that’s

too weak or too small

When most folks first experiment with

electric fencing, they have limited ideas

about its possibilities. So they limit their

investment in the energizer.

But if it works (and it does if done

properly), most folks then extend the

fence and then extend it further, etc.

In a short time the longer fence is too

long and grass-covered for the small

energizer to keep fully energized.

The same is true

of batteries. The

12 amp-hr battery

(right)

discharges

quickly when

paired with this

energizer without

a solar panel. Use a

larger battery (80 or

100 amp-hr) if not

using a solar panel.

Believing the “miles of fence” claims

Even politicians aren’t as misleading as

many energizer claims.

So why do many manufacturers

still emphasize miles? Because other

manufacturers do it. They fear that if

they don’t include a “miles” claim, a

customer will not buy their product.

For 30 years, Premier has refused to make

such inaccurate claims.

Not enough eart

h (ground) rods

It’s hard for the less experienced to

believe that 6 ft of ground rod(s) is

needed for a 2 joule unit—and 18 ft for a

6 joule unit.

Extra ground rods increase the size of

the energy “collection field” of the earth

terminal. This, in turn, increases the

potential size of the pulse.

Use galvanized ground rods (rust is an

insulator). Connect them properly with

stainless steel clamps

(see p. 102)

.

Allowing bare copper wires to touch

steel wires or ground rods

If you do, corrosion by electrolysis will

occur.

Result?

Poor contact and a weaker

pulse. It’s best not to use bare copper

materials at all in electric fences. (Tinned

copper is not a problem. The tin coating

prevents any electrolysis.)

Most common

DC battery

error

Not keeping the battery charge level

high enough. When a deep-cycle lead

acid battery is drawn below a 40% charge,

it is less able to

ever

be fully recharged.

Batteries with reduced charge levels

may freeze in extremely cold weather.

It pays to check the energizer batteries

often—particularly during the cold of

winter—to make sure your energizer and

fence are working.

Energizer and Battery Errors

Not keeping the panel clean Dirt/debris/snow stop panels from recharging batteries. Solution? Clean the panels. Solar panels not facing the sun A solar panel won’t function at its full potential if it’s not fully facing the sun’s rays (perpendicular to it at midday) for the maximum number of hours. Depending on the time of year and your geographical location (see p. 92) , the energizer’s solar panel angle should change from nearly flat in the summer to nearly vertical in the winter to maximize sun exposure. Solar Panel Errors www.premier1supplies.com

• 1-800-282-6631 COMMON FENCING MISTAKES 15