2016 Premier Fence

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Common Fencing Mistakes
Most common tube insulator error
This SupaTube has slid sideways out
from under the staple—allowing the post
to leak energy to the soil when it’s wet
from dew or rain. While HT wires need to
be allowed to “move” inside a staple, the
opposite is true of tube insulators. This is
one reason we prefer ring insulators and
rarely use tube insulators.
Too weak to take up/down strain
Years ago almost all insulators were
weak and badly designed. Now only 50%
are not up to the task (it varies by brand).
Buy the best (not necessarily the most
expensive) that have plenty of plastic in
them. Stick to white or black ones (more
likely to have UV resistance—but even
the right color is not a guarantee).
Pay attention
to the
little things
This insulator
was installed
upside down—
which allowed
the tape to
drop out of it.
Insulator was
too weak to
withstand the up
and down strain
from the wire.
Also, energized
barbed wire—a
serious risk.
Broken strands
Deer and livestock
can break insulators
and conductors. It is
essential to repair
them immediately.
This rope was
easily repaired with
a RopeLink (p. 141).
Incorrect Correct
Broken
Insulator
Don’t energize
barbed wire!
Insulator/Conductor Mistakes
Buying an energizer or battery that’s
too weak or too small
When most folks first experiment with
electric fencing, they have limited ideas
about its possibilities. So they limit their
investment in the energizer.
But if it works (and it does if done
properly), most folks then extend the
fence and then extend it further, etc.
In a short time the longer fence is too
long and grass-covered for the small
energizer to keep fully energized.
The same is true
of batteries. The
12 amp-hr battery
(right) discharges
quickly when
paired with this
energizer without
a solar panel. Use a
larger battery (80 or
100 amp-hr) if not
using a solar panel.
Believing the “miles of fence” claims
Even politicians aren’t as misleading as
many energizer claims.
So why do many manufacturers
still emphasize miles? Because other
manufacturers do it. They fear that, if
they don’t include a “miles” claim, a
customer will not buy their product.
For 35 years, Premier has refused to make
such inaccurate claims.
Not enough earth (ground) rods
It’s hard for the less experienced to
believe that 6 ft of ground rod(s) may be
needed for a 2 joule unit—and 18 ft for a
6 joule unit.
Extra ground rods increase the size of
the energy “collection field” of the earth
terminal. This, in turn, usually increases
the potential size of the pulse.
Use galvanized ground rods (rust is an
insulator). Connect them properly with
stainless steel clamps (see p. 98).
Allowing bare copper wires to touch
steel wires or ground rods
If you do, corrosion by electrolysis will
occur. Result? Poor contact and a weaker
pulse. It’s best not to use bare copper
materials at all in electric fences. (Tinned
copper is not a problem. The tin coating
prevents any electrolysis.)
Most common DC battery error
Not keeping the battery charge level
high enough. When a deep-cycle lead
acid battery is drawn below a 40% charge,
it is less able to ever be fully recharged.
Batteries with reduced charge levels
may freeze in extremely cold weather.
It pays to check the energizer batteries
often—particularly during the cold of
winter—to make sure your energizer and
fence are working.
Energizer and Battery Errors
Not keeping the panel clean
Dirt/dust/debris/snow stop panels
from recharging batteries.
Solution? Clean the panels.
Solar panels not facing the sun
A solar panel won’t function at its
full potential if it’s not fully facing
the sun’s rays (perpendicular to the
sun at midday) for the maximum
number of hours.
Depending on the time of year and
your geographical location (see p.
89), the energizer’s solar panel angle
should change from nearly flat in
the summer to nearly vertical in the
winter to maximize sun exposure.
Solar Panel Errors
114 COMMON FENCING MISTAKES