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116 TROUBLESHOOTING FENCES

www.premier1supplies.com • 1-800-282-6631

Troubleshooting

Electric Fences

Is it the energizer or the fence that’s the problem?

1. To check—turn off the energizer.

2. Then disconnect the wires going to the fence and ground

rod system.

3. Turn the energizer back on.

4. Then measure the voltage on the energizer between the 2

terminals (fence and earth) with a digital fence voltmeter or

other fence testing device. Touch one end to the “–” earth

terminal and the other end to the “+” fence terminal.

5. If the tester reads under 4000v, the energizer (or possibly the

battery if it’s a battery energizer) is the problem.

6. If the tester reads more than 4000 volts, the energizer is

working properly and the fence is the problem.

If energizer is at fault…

110 volt plug-in unit

1. Check that the 110v outlet is “live” with a test light.

2. If the test light works and the energizer does not, call

Premier. We are happy to help and will act quickly.

DC battery unit

First determine whether it’s the battery or the energizer that’s

not working.

1. If it’s a 12v energizer, carry it to a nearby vehicle. Attach the

input cords carefully to the vehicle’s battery.

2. If the energizer works, then the energizer’s battery needs to

be recharged or replaced.

3. If the energizer does not work when attached to a vehicle

battery, then you should call Premier about the unit.

Energizer testing mistakes

• Some testers require batteries. If the tester’s battery is low,

no reading or a misreading (sharp contrast in consecutive

pulse voltage) will occur.

• Fault finders are unable to test fence energizers.

• If a battery energizer’s light is pulsing but less than

3000v is measured across the terminals, check the battery

charge level (with a digital battery tester). Energizers with

undercharged batteries may produce an insufficient pulse.

HotShock 600

110v plug-in unit.

If test light is not

functional, check

the fuse.

Other concerns

Electrified fences in contact with waterers

When this occurs the waterer may shock you or your

livestock. An electrified tank of water is a hazard to

both animals and humans.

Poor choice of fence

Using fences that don’t match your species/climate.

Example: HT fences with 2 to 3 strands may work

for sheep in the damp Northwest US, but they are not

effective for sheep in the Midwest when feed is short.

Inadequately training animals to the fence

Animals may run through electric fences. This is

more common with energized steel wire fences—

because livestock may have previously encountered

nonenergized wire fences that did not cause pain.

That’s why it’s best to build a short training fence

inside a pen next to a physical barrier fence. If it’s steel

wire, add ribbons to the energized wire for visibility.

Attract them to the “hot” wire with hay or grain.

Common design errors

• Angles formed by horizontal bar, end post and

brace wire are wrong.

Result? The end post lifts up as

you see above. Solutions? Either lower the brace bar or

use a longer cross bar (10 ft or more). We now use an 8

ft long post as a brace bar as the horizontal but we set it

only 36" above the soil. The brace wire attaches at the

same 36" point.

• End post too small and/or not buried deep enough.

For fences 3 to 4 ft tall, use 8" diameter end posts. Drive

or set them 4 ft deep.

• Using floating braces.

Regrettably we tried this

design. They all ultimately failed.

• Live wires touching brace wires.

When this occurs as

it does when posts move (like those shown above have

done), contact will occur and the fence will short out.

H Brace Mistakes

Cross brace is too short and set too high—allowing end post to be pulled

out of the ground by the tension of the wire fence