2016 Premier Fence

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12 NETTING FAQs
Q. I want to contain several species.
Which net design is the best?
A. Choose the fence for the most difficult
species to contain. For example, if
fencing both poultry and sheep or
goats, use either PoultryNet 12/48/3
or PermaNet 12/48/3 (see above).
Q. Will netting harm animals, birds
or humans?
A. Not unless they are unable to move
away from it. An electric fence pulse
lasts less than 3 milliseconds—which
is too brief to cause harm if the
contact does not continue.
Q. Can predators jump the net?
A. It is possible for some predators to
jump these fences. However this
is unlikely if the net is properly
electrified when it is first installed
and always maintained that way.
Why? Because of the “fear factor”
created by the initial exposure.
Evidence? Our sheep guard dogs will
jump or climb 4 ft tall wire fences and
gates in pursuit of coyotes or other
dogs. But they rarely jump 35" tall
electrified netting.
Q. How much area do I need to fence in
my animals?
A. It depends on the species, type of
production (confined or rotational) and
management style.
Q. Some of my netting wires are being
chewed or cut. Why?
A. The lower wires are not “hot” enough
to prevent small animals (rats, mice,
rabbits) from cutting them with their
sharp teeth.
Q. Does the bottom wire have a charge?
A. The bottom strand of most (but not all)
nets is not conductive. The exceptions
are QuikFence Quick Ground nets (see
our website for details) .
Q. How do I fix a break
in my net?
A. Each net is supplied
with a repair kit (at right
and sold additionally on
our website) containing
brass ferrules, conductive twine, post
tops and bottom clips.
Use a fisherman’s knot . (You can look
online for a how-to on tying the knot.)
Clamp brass ferrules over the knot to
hold it in place.
Q. Can I use different types or styles of
netting together?
A. Yes, they all conduct electricity. But
some are much better than others.
Q. Advantages of Pos/Neg?
A. Main use is in dry, sandy or rocky soil
conditions due to poor soil moisture.
It’s good for species that make poor
soil-to-foot contact due to fur, dry
hooves or minimal weight.
Must be installed with extra care and
checked often to remove objects that
fall on or against it. Best to convert it to
all “hot” in green grass situations.
Q. How do I support netting at corners?
A. Two options:
1. Install a support post. (See photo above
and sold on pp. 127-133.)
2. Or drive in a tent peg or T post
outside the fence at the corner. Use
nonconductive string to tie to the
netting post (at least 2" away).
Q. If the net is too long, can I cut it?
A. We strongly advise against cutting
netting—because all the energized
horizontal strands are interconnected
at each end of the net. The best way to
deal with net that is too long is to make
a complete U-turn with the excess
netting and erect it back alongside the
original fence line. The 2 nets can touch
one another (unless the netting is a
pos/neg configuration).
Q. How do I put in replacement posts?
Replacement clips?
A. Starting at the bottom of the net,
interweave the new post upwards.
Once done, place the lowest all-black
strand in the replacement bottom
clip and slide it up the steel ground
spike. Then attach the top strand to
the cap on top of the post. For clips,
place the lowest all-black strand in the
replacement bottom clip and slide it up
the steel ground spike. Then attach the
top strand to the cap on top of the post.
Coyotes are one of many predators that well-
energized netting can stop. Photo by K. Gustafson, MO.