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Then insert

net post(s)

First drill

pilot hole(s)

www.premier1supplies.com • 1-800-282-6631

NETTING FAQs 13

Q. Why do you sell netting and energizers

as kits?

A.

To simplify purchasing decisions.

• Because there are so many netting

options, support post choices, etc.

• Because it’s complicated for those without

experience to buy the correct components.

We also know that:

1. Many already own an energizer.

If

you’re not sure whether it will work for

our fences, call us.

2. Many need longer fences and larger

energizers than suggested in our kits.

If so, call us and we will help.

Electric Netting FAQs

Q. Fence energizers? Why and which one

to choose?

A.

For netting to work, it absolutely must

be properly electrified.

Many farmstore

energizers are too low in energy output to

successfully energize a roll of netting

.

That is why we offer our own units. They

are specifically selected for this purpose.

Q. Which energizer is right for you?

A. If you’re close enough to plug the energizer into an outlet, always use a plug-in (AC/110V) unit . ( See pp. 82–87.) For fences far away from an outlet, your choices are: a. PRS solar units ( see pp. 90–93) —an all-in-one kit. Units are ready to work within 5 minutes. Just place it, drive in the ground rod, connect the leads, switch it on and test for voltage on the fence. b. DC battery, for which you will need a 12 volt battery that must be regularly recharged. ( See p. 82.)

To reduce green grass contact we spray a strip

of herbicide along netting fence lines.

Q. How can I make netting work well in dry soils?

A.

Here are 4 ways to maximize effectiveness:

1. Use a wide impedance energizer.

They are more

capable of pushing strong pulses through dry soil

than low impedance units.

2. Install more or longer ground rods

(at right and sold on

p. 98)

.

The extra length needs to reach damp subsoil.

3. Place the energizer’s ground rod where the soil will

remain damp.

4. Moisten the soil around the energizer’s ground rod.

To do this, make a

pencil-sized hole in the bottom of a 3 to 5 gal bucket. Set the bucket next to

the ground rod. Fill the bucket with water. The water will gradually seep

into the soil around the ground rod. Refill it every few days.

During winter, drill pilot holes for single and

double spikes. They will insert much easier.

Q. What about grass contact?

A.

It lowers the fence’s voltage. So:

1. When grass gets 6" high, mow

carefully

along

the fence. First

turn off the energizer! Do

not mow into the fence. Move

the net into mowed strip by

removing and reinstalling.

2. Or spray herbicide in a narrow

strip under the fence. We prefer

burn-down chemicals that don’t

kill perennial grasses or clovers.

Vegetation will return.

3. Or buy an energizer large

enough to cope with the extra

weed contact.

Snow and a thick winter hair coat increase

resistance. Make sure your energizer is up to the

challenge of such situations.

Netting can be weighed down by ice or snow.

Add more support posts to take the weight.

Q. Can I leave it up through the winter

(see photos above)

?

A.

• Posts become frozen in the soil. To release we clamp pliers on the steel

spike and twist. To insert a post into frozen soil, use a power drill.

• Excess ice and snow can flatten netting (as they will any fence).

• Snow can act as an insulator and reduce the strength of the pulse.

Netting Kits

PoultryNet..pp. 30–33 RaccoonNet.......38–39 VersaNet Plus... 40–43 Energizer Kits HotShock.............p. 82 Patriot.................82–84 IntelliShock....... 83–84 Kube.........................84 PRS.....................90–93