
Then insert
net post(s)
First drill
pilot hole(s)
www.premier1supplies.com • 1-800-282-6631NETTING FAQs 13
Q. Why do you sell netting and energizers
as kits?
A.
To simplify purchasing decisions.
• Because there are so many netting
options, support post choices, etc.
• Because it’s complicated for those without
experience to buy the correct components.
We also know that:
1. Many already own an energizer.
If
you’re not sure whether it will work for
our fences, call us.
2. Many need longer fences and larger
energizers than suggested in our kits.
If so, call us and we will help.
Electric Netting FAQs
Q. Fence energizers? Why and which one
to choose?
A.
For netting to work, it absolutely must
be properly electrified.
Many farmstore
energizers are too low in energy output to
successfully energize a roll of netting
.
That is why we offer our own units. They
are specifically selected for this purpose.
Q. Which energizer is right for you?
A. If you’re close enough to plug the energizer into an outlet, always use a plug-in (AC/110V) unit . ( See pp. 82–87.) For fences far away from an outlet, your choices are: a. PRS solar units ( see pp. 90–93) —an all-in-one kit. Units are ready to work within 5 minutes. Just place it, drive in the ground rod, connect the leads, switch it on and test for voltage on the fence. b. DC battery, for which you will need a 12 volt battery that must be regularly recharged. ( See p. 82.)To reduce green grass contact we spray a strip
of herbicide along netting fence lines.
Q. How can I make netting work well in dry soils?
A.
Here are 4 ways to maximize effectiveness:
1. Use a wide impedance energizer.
They are more
capable of pushing strong pulses through dry soil
than low impedance units.
2. Install more or longer ground rods
(at right and sold on
p. 98)
.
The extra length needs to reach damp subsoil.
3. Place the energizer’s ground rod where the soil will
remain damp.
4. Moisten the soil around the energizer’s ground rod.
To do this, make a
pencil-sized hole in the bottom of a 3 to 5 gal bucket. Set the bucket next to
the ground rod. Fill the bucket with water. The water will gradually seep
into the soil around the ground rod. Refill it every few days.
During winter, drill pilot holes for single and
double spikes. They will insert much easier.
Q. What about grass contact?
A.
It lowers the fence’s voltage. So:
1. When grass gets 6" high, mow
carefully
along
the fence. First
turn off the energizer! Do
not mow into the fence. Move
the net into mowed strip by
removing and reinstalling.
2. Or spray herbicide in a narrow
strip under the fence. We prefer
burn-down chemicals that don’t
kill perennial grasses or clovers.
Vegetation will return.
3. Or buy an energizer large
enough to cope with the extra
weed contact.
Snow and a thick winter hair coat increase
resistance. Make sure your energizer is up to the
challenge of such situations.
Netting can be weighed down by ice or snow.
Add more support posts to take the weight.
Q. Can I leave it up through the winter
(see photos above)
?
A.
• Posts become frozen in the soil. To release we clamp pliers on the steel
spike and twist. To insert a post into frozen soil, use a power drill.
• Excess ice and snow can flatten netting (as they will any fence).
• Snow can act as an insulator and reduce the strength of the pulse.
Netting Kits
PoultryNet..pp. 30–33 RaccoonNet.......38–39 VersaNet Plus... 40–43 Energizer Kits HotShock.............p. 82 Patriot.................82–84 IntelliShock....... 83–84 Kube.........................84 PRS.....................90–93